Tutorial on Waterslide Decal Application.

Well, yeah, I know that, I just didn't know blank white torsoes were so rare. Just like when I looked up the Black Falcon minifigs on Bl. The set I have came out in '86, ten years older than I am. I find random facts about my darling minifigs interesting.

Chaotic Good wrote:Ergghhhh.....

No, no. Do not sand. It creates a rough and horrible surface.

Brasso removes the printing only - with chemicals, it's a polish - and leaves a blank surface. Sanding literally grinds bits off the torso - it's nasty, in my view.

Blank torsos are actually quite rare, especially white ones. It's cheaper and easier to buy a load of simply printed (like the Octan ones) white torsos and brasso off the printing. It looks cleaner, too.

Actually it does depend what grain and quality of sandpaper you use. But yes, Brasso>Sanding in this case.

I've used a nail-file, a light-weight thin stick thing, I don't know precisely what to call it. But, it works pretty good. The printing comes right off and it isn't rough at all. But still, I use the brasso stuff. It takes less time.

I actually use sandpaper to remove the printing off of all of my troopers. The surface is quite smooth, and when I apply the decal, it looks shinier than when TLC made it. Also, I don't use softener. I couldn't find any the first time I went looking to try decals, so I risked it and found out that I didn't need it! The decal contoured exactly to the arms, legs, and helmet. But, it only works without softener for clear decal paper, not white. To finish off the fig, and to add shine to everything that wasn't decaled to give a nice overall feel, I cover/coat the minifig with acrylic gloss. 1 coat is all that is needed! I hoped I helped. Thanks to CG for teaching me how to apply the decals.

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

Rijulskywalker wrote:I actually use sandpaper to remove the printing off of all of my troopers. The surface is quite smooth, and when I apply the decal, it looks shinier than when TLC made it. Also, I don't use softener. I couldn't find any the first time I went looking to try decals, so I risked it and found out that I didn't need it! The decal contoured exactly to the arms, legs, and helmet. But, it only works without softener for clear decal paper, not white. To finish off the fig, and to add shine to everything that wasn't decaled to give a nice overall feel, I cover/coat the minifig with acrylic gloss. 1 coat is all that is needed! I hoped I helped. Thanks to CG for teaching me how to apply the decals.

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

Merely a different in quality. Mine are similar to photo paper as well.

Thunder-blade wrote:

Chaotic Good wrote:Ergghhhh.....

No, no. Do not sand. It creates a rough and horrible surface.

Brasso removes the printing only - with chemicals, it's a polish - and leaves a blank surface. Sanding literally grinds bits off the torso - it's nasty, in my view.

Blank torsos are actually quite rare, especially white ones. It's cheaper and easier to buy a load of simply printed (like the Octan ones) white torsos and brasso off the printing. It looks cleaner, too.

Actually it does depend what grain and quality of sandpaper you use. But yes, Brasso>Sanding in this case.

I created such a controversy over sandpaper on LEGO torsos... At least I got the information I needed! Now to go buy brasso...

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

From my perspective, mine look like they're on photo paper. Sometimes they get printed wrongly, but I've never put up any pictures of those.

Can you provide a picture of what yours look like?

Chaotic Good wrote:

One thing CG: I noticed that your decal sheet looks a little foamy and thick. My decals look like they're on photo paper! Why is it like that?

From my perspective, mine look like they're on photo paper. Sometimes they get printed wrongly, but I've never put up any pictures of those.

Can you provide a picture of what yours look like?

I think he means the backing paper after the waterslide comes off. Yours looks very stiff and thick.

Mine personally tend to go all translucent and thin.

If that's it, then that's just the variations of decal paper types. It doesn't affect the quality, anyhow.

Does anyone have a distinct opinion regarding decal setting solution? I understand that decal softening solution is quite crucial, but only about half the articles I read mention setting solution. From what I understand it helps bond the decal to the surface, but this seems superfluous to me after the decal is sealed. Also if you were to use decal setting solution, would it be applied after the decal is placed on the surface, and then let to dry, and then you apply coats of softening solution until the decal conforms? Or would you apply the decal with softening solution, let dry and then apply decal setting solution?

I was wondering how to do the helmets with decals. Like if people using CG template add something around the mask what do they do take off the helmet "face" or do they leave it or what do they do???

I erase the face and make a whole new face decal. If thats what you mean.

eclipsegrafx wrote:I erase the face and make a whole new face decal. If thats what you mean.

A good solution, but my only issue would be if you mess up then your trooper could be ruined. But if you have the skill, then by all means do it.

Thanks guys that helps alot and I was wondering also what is easier/cheaper/looks the best stickers or decals?

Stickers are easier and cheaper.

Decals on the other hand look smexy!

Not to mention decals are easier to get in those curved areas. Anyone have a tutorial as to how to apply those tricky wrap-around arm decals? Thanks.

bl*c wrote:Stickers are easier and cheaper.

Decals on the other hand look smexy!

Ok than . is there any way to make stickers look super "smexy."

I wouldn't know, sorry Ethan. =/

bl*c wrote:I wouldn't know, sorry Ethan. =/

Well thanks for trying. Why do stickers look so bad anyway?

Ethan52 wrote:

bl*c wrote:I wouldn't know, sorry Ethan. =/

Well thanks for trying. Why do stickers look so bad anyway?

Because stickers are more easily removable and easier to apply then decals, they are slightly thicker so you can just stick them onto the fig easy although it makes a bit of a bump on the fig. However, decals are made to be so thin that it is as if it wasn't even there so that's why decals look more like real printed LEGO on a fig then stickers as you don't really see much of a bump. I hope this helped.

Thanks Troopa Daisy that does help alot . It seems according to alot of people decals are the best way to go. Thanks again everybody I'm going to try decals soon.

You're welcome Ethan. Glad to know that it helped.

Mmmm. the 212nd trooper looks awesome. But yet I still have some questions. My printer is a inkjet printer, and I bought injet waterslide. Do we have to apply anything after the decal gets printed? Cuz some of the people say that we need to apply a layer of oil on it before it enters the water. If there is such thing as that oil, what should I use?

You have to apply a sealant. My waterslides came with a spray sealant. I spray it on, wait a day, apply the decals, then seal them with a gloss paint that seals decals too.

Rijulskywalker wrote:You have to apply a sealant. My waterslides came with a spray sealant. I spray it on, wait a day, apply the decals, then seal them with a gloss paint that seals decals too.

Thanks! I live in Canada what kind of sealant work best? And where can we get it?